9/14/2004

Near Tower Island, Galápagos, 9/6/04, 11:20 a.m.

Some things I've forgotten to mention so far: 1) the water in the tub in Quito ran counter-clockwise down the drain! It's been clockwise on board but the islands straddle the Equator so maybe that will change as we toodle around? 2) I can't remember any other things I've forgotten right now.

We're staying on board while some of the others are off deep-sea snorkeling. We thought about doing it but ultimately are too creeped out by the deep water. Several others stayed behind, citing different excuses. No one else has owned up to being chicken.

Regardless of chickenhood, today has been great so far. We got up at 7 a.m. -- but I'd been waking up and feeling pretty alert for a while prior to the wake-up call -- and quickly got ready for breakfast. Today we ate with Sandy and Larry from Tulsa (last night, dinner with was with Vanessa and Jim from Chicago and lunch yesterday was with Hadas and Gil, who live in NYC). Larry asked if Kim and I live near each other and Kim said, "We're partners" and Sandy said, "I was just about to kick you under the table." Very funny moment. They were nice. I wonder who we'll lunch with today.

After breakfast, we lined up for the panga ride to Genovesa (aka Tower Island) and as soon as all were aboard, it became clear that we were having troubles. We had to get out the paddles, but they didn't do much good, so the driver kept trying the motor until we got close enough to pull in. We then waited for the other panga and went about our way.

At Genovesa, we had a dry landing on to a steep rocky "staircase" up a cliff and then followed a trail around looking at two varieties of boobies, some frigates, lots of unexpected marine iguanas, some mockingbirds, a yellow warbler and more. We tried but failed to locate a short-eared owl.

Malena is great -- I chatted with her a bit on the walk back. She studied environmental science and has been a naturalist guide for 10 years. She thought I was in college and said I look no more than 25! Ha.

It's almost lunchtime, after which we'll go snorkeling again on a sandy beach, but this time there's coral on our landing, so we're ordered to wear our Tevas! More later.

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